Having seen MembersPage/NanassyPeter/CloneInstall it became apparent that it's possible to make something for appr. 8000 EUR that leaves most Ferraris, BMWs and factory Subarus behind (at least in normal road circumstances where 4wd helps).

Finally found the airleak and reached 406 Hp in 2008. It's hard to get much more (with the factory exhaust manifold and the installed k26/27 turbo with the k26/6 turbine housing), the air was fairly cold, even damp, with dry road (perfect for tuning).

Another project: MembersPage/AudiKeJetronicOut

Injector end-angle

With 1.1.80 firmware we set the audi injendangle to about 420 deg BTDC and it's a bit smoother and reacts better

After E85 and other experiments, several upgrades, we thought it was time to retune it and push it a bit. Maybe we pushed a bit too much ;-)

On Fri, when upping boost, the MAP hose came off (old rubber broke). on Saturday we had an ign-wire touch the hot exhaust, blown some fuses. Sparkplug-of-cyl2 was not connected properly (easy fix). Than the fuel-pressure regulator reference hose came off - on boost it went lean: lucky that we did not blow up the engine. The clutch hydraulics seems to have lost some fluid, not disengaging. That caused the synchro of gear 1-2 break in the transmission.

mcel Than some rain. Than the alternator somehow stopped charging. We were still able to drive home. That was Saturday

TODO: cleanup and move stuff from this page to the relevant subpage: only leave overview here

[gallery] (more pics will be uploaded)

Configs and Logs

When using these config and tables, beware that this uses nonstandard ignition outputs, and cam pulse is 360 degrees off (like the factory position, without cam-hall inverter).

I was on a longer trip (300km appr 25..27L gasoline) with the audi200. It was mostly 80..100km/h cruising, small part was mild hills, and pushed it only a very few times. Seems like the min fuel consumption for cruising is near 8L/100km. It behave nicely, except the left side of the hood seemed to come up a bit at 130km/h (the hook still held in place). On the way back I used a quicktie for safety. The left hood-lock should be investigated.

Factory manuals needed

I was thinking about getting the 1989 audi100-200 repair manuals. Not only engine, but the whole car (owner's manual is not enough!). I prefer digital to paper (I can print the parts that I need, maybe 10% at max.

Unfortunately not all that I need is available at this time. I'd be happy to pay 49 USD for the 3 day ebahn licence. If someone needs same set of docs, and willing to click (to print pages to pdf via pdf995 driver), possibly for hours (not sure how big chunks it's possible to print), let me know here.

Audi people suggested that I get etka, so I can look up part numbers. They said something about emule/bittorrent... I haven't investigated this at all.

Besides etka, the car wiring schematics were available [here] (this is very useful) and my local car electrician seems to be familiar with parts like the power-windows. The factory repair manuals are not essential any more, at least for minor electronic debugging and repair.

I got a AAN (with K24 turbo) audi quattro running with PNP VEMS box (with motronic-55 connector) on [this config and tables] (these are conservative tables, fuel consumption is bad and performance suboptimal). That is not my engine, although very similar. My (old) harness is 3B (with lotsof small leafs hanging that I have no idea where to connect; and injector part had to be remade because of flaking insulation; guess it didn't like the heat for 18 years).

My 3B engine is running with PNP VEMS box and 1.1.23 firmware. While the HALL sensor was bad, it started appr every 2nd try, now fixed

Many thanx to

Project plan with parts and costs

See old photos, clutch, flywheel and enginebay [pics].

The clutch looked burnt (and weak anyway).

Since I have no mechanical installation experience (especially with this 5cyl engine), I made a spreadsheet to track the parts necessary for install. It would be nice to prevent major stalls due to the lack of small gaskets or bolts or other accessories.

See [project plan audi-costs.xls] and add your hints below.

The car should preferrably come out from the assemly shop on it's own power. Even if in NA form (with turbo+oil installed, but wastegate open and perhaps without charge-cooler to throttle tube, with improvised air-filter)

Add your hints here (anything missing from the spreadsheet, or errors, bad concepts, etc...):

[pictures about the engine pieces]

We accept that the max power of this engine will be limited by the following parts:

Effectively, max power (on the crank) that can ideally be achieved with this setup is estimated max 380 .. 400 HP.

We don't want to stress it further because:

Engine specs

As you see, this is inhomogeneus. Sounds stupid to use those pistons and rods (good for 600..900 HP) when the turbo limits power to appr 400 HP. However, we had a short timeframe and limited supply. So we chose a built (by experienced parties) bargain engine for appr 2500 EUR instead of a used "junkyard-engine" for 1600 EUR (though that had more spare parts). This way we can reduce the risk of wasting (more!) time because of mechanical problems. And possibly have some room for more HP for future upgrades.

The 20VT (5 cyl, 20 valve turbo) engine is quite amazing

We purchased a

We like the potential and exceptional price/performance of these engines and support tuners around the world who chose this engine.

The most important target of this install is to get the InputTrigger/AudiTrigger install procedure as simple, painless and reproducible as possible

Near-future plans with this install

VAG number of the Audi 20VT (3B or AAN/ADU/ABY) engine small timing wheel for the crankshaft is [ 034105263a]

Mine cracked while towing. It didn't fully broke, actually.


You can find some pictures under [files], including