InputTrigger/AudiTrigger (2006-07-08 15:10:56)

Page for the 135-tooth, 3-signal trigger system found on many 5cyl audi engines

Note that for GenBoard/VerThree v3.3 the trigger HW was modified so it can directly use the 3 input signals from the Audi wheels:

The first successful install with this trigger-setup was done by Miska Peippo in Finland, see MembersPage/MiskaPeippo/AudiSSix. Congratulations.


HW modifications

For v3.0 .. v3.2:

For v3.3 shipped in 2005:

For v3.3 shipped in 2006: - done at assembly if requested in shop order note


multitooth Audi crankwheels

The old Five cylinder engines with electronically controlled ignition have 2 VR sensors and a HALL sender.

These engines use a homebrew ignition module with a visible TO-3 transistor in the ignition coil console. (at least the ones I have seen) Igniton computer is made by Hitachi (MAC-xx).

The small spacing between the teeth (together with cambelt sloppyness) makes it impossible (at least without very advanced, long-term filtering) to sync the engine without the pin in the flywheel.

Signal timing graph from 5-cylinder MC-engine:

audi_mc_trigger.gif

The same type of triggersystem is used on many older Audis, even the Audi V8 had it until it was replaced with the A8. The engines with an even number of cylinders has an 136teeth flywheel to make everything add up.

Solution:

We use AND( HALLsignal, crankhome_pulse) logic operation (implemented in HW) and pass this to the AVR secondary-trigger input.

The camsync masks out the 62deg BTDC cyl1 crankhome pulse, but leaves the 134deg BTDC cyl5 pulse alone, to reach the processor.

This way the secondary trigger the AVR sees is timed from crank, but only 1 pulse for each cam-rotation (suitable for 5cyl ign). Effectively a 'cam ref signal' with no slop at all.

135 interrupts per crank-rotation still needed, but the interrupt code is much shorter than for 60-2 wheels, allowing > 20000 RPM:

We thought that 135teeth takes up too much CPU time. After thinking about it, we found that the multitooth processing code can be bypassed altogether, so the CPU load would be smaller than for 60-2 wheel.

Q:What is (theoretically) the MAX RPM that this kind of trigger can handle?We just build an engine thet will rev

9000RPM without problems.//pnanassy


How to connect the 3 trigger signals

Don't forget to use shielded cables, separate for all 3 signals. The shield only connected at the ECM end. "return" is to GND (sensor ground), not GND5. See MembersPage/PhatBob/UserGuide.

See InputTrigger/AudiTrigger/TestLM to see how the first installs got sorted out.


Signal Sloppyness

The sloppiness seems small, see [image1] and [image2]. Our implementation accepts if the "cramhome" (== crank-cam hybrid) pulse comes normally, or one tooth too early (which should be rare, but possible if the VR sensor is not aligned properly).

If the crank-home is sloppy, not always between 2 given crankteeth, the code will finally sync as if the crank-home always came after the tooth coming later.

Example

Here we name 3 given teeth A,B,C. If crankhome is seen


Configuration

We must start from a coiltype + camsync setup (maybe like MembersPage/MichaelRichards/Projects/NicksGTX or [Fero]


Other Audi triggers:

There is also an other audi trigger arrangement on the older audis that don't have a knock sensing ignition. They only have a 5 slot trigger wheel in the distributor and no crank trigger and a hall sender controlling a auto dwell ignition module. If a few degrees of ignition inaccuracy is acceptable one of these distributors can replace the entire ignition system on the computer controlled cars.

The later models have a standard Motronic triggerwheel and a CAM synk sensor.


Header for easy switch between primary_trig=HALL and 3 signal audi-trigger

For an assembled controller, one wants to avoid too many clamping/unclamping. (assemble/disassemble)

The alubos endplate is very easy to remove, unclamping is not needed. The trigger section can be reached for soldering or measuring with just the alubos endplate removed. However the onboard mounted MAP sensor makes it impossible to reach the connections.

Choices:

I had to apply relatively much hotmelt to prevent the header from shorting on anything (it might take 4..5 minutes of scratching to clean the header when one wants to change it: but at least only the endplate must be removed for it). 3 DIP switches would work for the same too. Are DIP switches acceptable in a car? I would say that they are, I have never heard of problems with the engine management systems that have it. we could make a backup solution with proper smd jumpers too.


See also: