MembersPage/MarcellGal/PowerAndTraction (2006-03-08 03:58:24)

Having seen MembersPage/NanassyPeter/CloneInstall it became apparent that it's possible to make something in 8000 Euro (at least in Hungary) that leaves most Ferraris, BMWs and factory Subarus standing at the starting line. That engine is quite amazing, will be a champion when the bottom is matched to the qualities of the intake/exhaust. I'm not aiming for that. Will settle for much less HP (for less money and work), but still much fun.

Recipe

The nice part is that starting from an 4WD Audi 80 - what model year did you have in mind?


The minimal and the ultimate

Since the engine management part won't be a problem (eg. I can add boostcontrol or launch or ALS without external help), the head is the main decision. Since 10V and 20V cost difference is relatively small compared to total cost, the 20V might be cheaper if I decide to push it further later. So going 20V is very likely before the first investment in mechanical or intake/exhaust mod.

But buying a car first, and installing genboard. Should most of the project be planned before these? Or enough after the purchase ?

If you buy a 80 with 10v engine, you would waste time and money installing genboard first, if you plan on ever going 20v. Best way would probably be to do it all at once, remove the 10v head and all the CIS stuff, and since you have more space with that stuff out, take care of the wiring. And it's no point upgrading the 10v exhaust and inlet since it won't be compatible.

Sigh.

I just have to watch not to spend too much time on it, to leave time on software and HW and business development.


There are several 5 banger engines with some very little differences compared to the others.First you have to decide to which route you want,10V or 20V.The main problems (or better issues) are,

1.Build up your own engine with dirtcheap parts (this might be time consuming,but we have all the connections and the knowhow for this)

Hybrid

20vt/20v (with or without machining) on 10v N/A bottom end. Usually at least only 1/5 the price of a stock 20vt.

OR

2.Buy a working hopefully mostly stock engine and install that.

10VT aka the cheapo 165HP-182HP-(URI 200HP,impossible to find one)

all distributor based

all K-jet injected

CR from 7 to 8.4

bigger turbos from factory what needed

20V NA

7A this is with the ultimate cams,needs some machining for full 20V turbo spec 170HP - also needs modification to drop CR if turbo converted

20VT aka the mighty

3B dizzy with motronic,loooooong intake plumbing 220HP

ABY just the same with cop 230HP

AAN another intake,much shorter :) 230HP

ADU the infamous RS2 engine powered by porsche,so its not cheap

better EM,bigger turbo for its 315HP

Building the ultimate

There are some infos about stroker conversions as well.This uses the 2.5l TDI engine crank,and your choice of block (the TDI is taller).It can be very pricey ,but using and buying the right parts,this can be the ultimate streetquattro,with approx 500-700 RPM lower boost treshold with the same turbo in a 2226ccm,TORQUE all the way.Though it will not rev like a normal 2.2 (as romour says),for the street its the best.Currently we have 2 stroker engines,we will see the results!!:)


Detailed Technical datas here:

http://www.audi100-online.de/Technik/Motor/motor.html

http://www.audi100-online.de/Technik/Motor/Turbos/turbos.html


Comments from Emil

Mikael Pihlblad got his 10 valve audi 100 down to 7.93 on 201meter streetrace. using stock internals, the list of mods on that car was the following

Should be somewhere right above 400 hp in that engine.


PhatBob: Part of business development 'is' having a demonstration car, and you do 'need' a demonstration car :-D