Having seen MembersPage/NanassyPeter/CloneInstall it became apparent that it's possible to make something in 8000 Euro (at least in Hungary) that leaves most Ferraris, BMWs and factory Subarus standing at the starting line. That engine is quite amazing, will be a champion when the bottom is matched to the qualities of the intake/exhaust. I'm not aiming for that. Will settle for much less HP (for less money and work), but still much fun.
Recipe
- 20VT - 5 cyl 4 valve, turbo
- 4WD
- good intake
- after the throttle, the ends of 5 pipes arranged in a circle around a cone, in the firing order of course
- tube from charge cooler to throttle might need to go around the radiator, not a big problem
- good exhaust
- no surprise
- turbo
- good bottom-end
- might be costly
- engine management
- will be no problem with genboard
The nice part is that starting from an 4WD Audi 80
- it's possible to start from something working for 2000 Euro, and build gradually
- genboard v3.x engine management
- turbo and exhaust system
- intake system
- the good bottom end likely won't be needed at all, 280..310 crank-HP should be good for me for long (not aiming to leave the ferraris behind)
The minimal and the ultimate
- The 10V head is dirt cheap, but is counterflow (right?), which I don't really like. But still enough for the target HP. Will need to investigate this further.
- If investing 800 Euro in a good intake, it obviously only makes sense with the 20valve head (and turbo).
Since the engine management part won't be a problem (eg. I can add boostcontrol or launch or ALS without external help), the head is the main decision. Since 10V and 20V cost difference is relatively small compared to total cost, the 20V might be cheaper if I decide to push it further later. So going 20V is very likely before the first investment in mechanical or intake/exhaust mod.
But buying a car first, and installing genboard. Should most of the project be planned before these? Or enough after the purchase ?
Sigh.
I just have to watch not to spend too much time on it, to leave time on software and HW and business development.
There are several 5 banger engines with some very little differences compared to the others.First you have to decide to which route you want,10V or 20V.The main problems (or better issues) are,
- oil squirters (all turbo engines have it ,and some later NA engines too,but you may want to use the stock block for lagality stuff)
- bore sizes vary from 79.5 81 82.5
- 10V cranks have smaller diameter connecting rods
- piston selection for 20V turbos are liited because
- bore (20V stock 81mm
- you cannot use 10V stock turbo pistons because the CR will drop to unreasonable values
- 10VT has AWFULL exhaust manifolds
- 10VT is very prone to knocking
- 20VT isnt much better ,but still can put out 350HP
- 20V NA cylinder heads are cheap but needs some machining for water manifold.
- almost all 5 banger stuff is interchangeble and upgradable,but some of them needs machining,so first better ask,then buy anything,we have all the experience in this,so just ask:)
1.Build up your own engine with dirtcheap parts (this might be time consuming,but we have all the connections and the knowhow for this)
OR
2.Buy a working hopefully mostly stock engine and install that.
Or you may go with a 4 banger,with 1.8-2l 16-20V.
Comments from Emil
Mikael Pihlblad got his 10 valve audi 100 down to 7.93 on 201meter streetrace. using stock internals, the list of mods on that car was the following
- Super T70 pirate copied turbo off ebay for almost no money
- Home made exhaust manifold
- Stock intake manifold
- Head ported by Jörgen, stock valves
- Decent camshaft, bought used very cheap
- Pirated intercooler off ebay as well
- 1000 cc Delphi injectors
- E85 fuel
Should be somewhere right above 400 hp in that engine.
PhatBob: Part of business development 'is' having a demonstration car, and you do 'need' a demonstration car :-D