MembersPage/DTechnologies/Hayabusa/Trigger (2005-06-06 05:56:00)

Trigger related page for MembersPage/DTechnologies/Hayabusa project

I need to configure the firmware for my engine.

Basic info


Original Manual Timing Diagram

Unfortunately, this is as much info as the manual can provide. It's great at showing the relationship between the sensors, coils, and injectors...but no numbers to speak of.

hayabusa_timing.GIF

-Are you sure about wasted spark?, Hayabusa have cam sensor and genboard can synchronize it, Hayabusa have Coil on Plug, Are going to change it to a simple wasted spark coilpack??? What about injectors opening and closing at double speed at 12000 rpm?

In hayabusa engine you can use the LM1815 for cranck sensor, but not for cam sensor , cam sensor is too close to Cyl 1 Coil-on-Plug and it give a lot of problems, with a simple osciloscope you can see what is the problem. Fortunately there are a simple (and very used in races) solution, there are a hall sensor in RS-components (RS-code 235-5706) It is a honeywell hall sensor like ABS one, original Yamaha R1 have also a hall sensor in cam.

GSXR have a small window (it is a threaded cap in right side of engine) it have a mark to locate TDC, you can remove all sparks and then push start button and adjust TDC with a timing light. - Jose L Cortes -


Crank trigger


Cam trigger


How do I figure out the timing? - with the least amount of fuss

We usually remove a sparkplug, and move the car in gear 5 until the given engine is at TDC. Than look at the trigger wheels.

There are often marks on the crankwheel (that can be at TDC or other position in custom-hacked setups)

This is something I've been fearing. I've had the engine apart but I can't determine anything that way because the sensors themselves are mounted inside the covers (valve cover & stator cover). At best I'd only be able to guess how many degree's forward or back they are of the tooth/teeth.


How to I set up the firmware appropriately?

The bad news is that current firmware does not support this crankwheel directly, unless engine is a 16cyl.

Options:


A good idea...maybe.

I think I've come up with the least expensive solution yet...I'll have to do some inquiring and see what kind of quote I can get. The original stator looks like this:

hayabusa_stator.GIF

Because the 'teeth' are so large, I think I could have each one cut into 2 or 3 at a machine shop. Then have 1 of these teeth ground out and the whole assembly balanced. This would create a 16-1 or 24-1 toothed gear. As long as it's not prohibitively expensive, I think it should be the best option. I'll have to pull the stator out and bring it to some machinist friends and see what they can do...and compare the cost to a new 2003 wheel.

Anyway, when machining, it's a good idea to record the VR signal with notebook soundcard before finalizing the milling (so height-depth can be finetuned). These wheels are usually not very sensitive to balancing.