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My project car is a 1st gen Saturn I've had for years. I've been working towards turbocharging it, but I always find myself in the research/engine=can o' marbles stage. Links I like (also available from the Documentation link at the top) MembersPage/PhatBob/UserGuide good manual, start with this StepByStepGuide I grayscaled the board front and back and printed it. It's not as good as a silkscreen, but it does a good job at helping directions become understandable when someone mentions JPxx. [http://students.washington.edu/ezdi/v33_top_bw.gif Top View] [http://students.washington.edu/ezdi/v33_top_bw.gif Bottom View] Manual for connections: http://megasquirtavr.sourceforge.net/manualhtml/Basics.Overview.Outside.html http://www.vems.hu/manual/html/ch03s02.html And the schematic for when that isn't good enough. http://www.vems.hu/files/genboardv3/v3.3/v33_sch.pdf http://www.x-dsl.hu/genboard/eagle/eagle-4.11e-1.i386.rpm ---- 061126 More of life conspiring to put this way in the back burner. Got a week off coming up, so working on re-figuring out how to set this up. Main questions are: * Need to dig into the schematic some more. Which of the manual pages above is correct? ** did you find contradiction ? *** Maybe it'd help if I put in my issue. I can't remember now, but my best guess is I got confused by the former using the coil_8, etc terminololgy instead of drive_8. I thought it was an actual coil (ie for ignition). Also, in my OE setup, the Inj+ common isn't available to the PCM. You must connect EC36pin23 in any case! (FlyBack is a must!) Choose a +12V than, that powers the injectors (likely through a fuse or a fuse and relay). At least the injectors shouldn't get +12V power when this line is 0V *I read some strong sounding warnings about not having a fuse in this path. I have 2 available power signals. One has power when the engine is on or starting (this will be hooked to EC36-25) and the other is a connection to the battery directly (via a 5A fuse). Would it be appropriate to hook the latter up to EC36-23? Will you want injector-PWM-ing ? Many finds 6.8Ohm power resistors a good idea for low-Z injectors, or choosing high-Z whenever possible (easier config, less sensitive to injector-opening characteristics variations in the set of injectors). *The injectors I have are low-Z because that's what the stock setup uses. To start, I figure it'll be easier to change as little as possible between the two. I could switch to high-z later, but that'll be relvant later and most of the hard stuff will be done already. *I have no particular attraction to PWM though, other than it seems like the better solution. I imagine I'd need approximately 2A through those resistors so they'd have to handle 28W at least? What's a good source for these? I'd rather not drop $25 on resistors and would much rather run an extra wire. Connect GND and all 4 GND5 at EC36, with max 20cm, strong wires. There must be a solid path to battery- , of course. Examine and measure the OEM harness carefully before deciding about not using a separate wire of your own. *The OE harness has two non-sensor grounds (in addition to the half dozen sensor grounds). One grounds to the engine right where the battery hooks up, the other grounds to the far side of the engine. I was planning on hooking all the sensor grounds to EC36-26 and splitting the rest up on the two digital grounds in the harness. As far as GND5, I only see 3: EC36-5,21,32. I see some mentions of EC36-22, but this isn't hooked up to anything, so I'd rather use it for an additional output. ---- 060412 Finally recovered from the quarter from hell. Goal is to get this thing up and running by the end of May in a more stable form so I can sell my other car. Turbo has been in for almost a year now. Running only 4psi at the turbo, 2.5psi at the manifold. Fuel control is the stock setup with 25% larger injectors and a 2 bar MAP sensor supplied by 8.5V instead of 5V to bring open loop to stoch (passes emissions with better than it used to). Unfortunately the dumb knock sensing method used by the computer is triggered by loose bearings and piston slap so it's been disabled (replaced with a resistor of appropriate value). The trash engine in there that I wanted to use to get operational has maybe 5K, 10K miles at most left on it before it needs a complete rebuild. Replacement engine is already standing by...gotta get going! So I can see how the Stilo code should work, although I'm somewhat disenheartened by the apparent failure of using the stock CAS. It should at least get it working better than using the builtin DIS timing. Ordering parts this week... ------------------------------------- 051207 The DIS module's output gives no indication of which cyllinders are at TDC. Basically this limits me to 1 bank batch until I ditch the DIS and deal with the VR sensor directly or add in the cam sync generator (heard on IRC that the current code doesn't apprecate sync signals in the advance window). ----------------------------------- 051205 This car has a GM DIS, see http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/20073/si/crank for a crank picture or http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/GM_DIS.htm for more general info. It's an extra pulse instead of missing and it's just plain weird compared to the rest. From discussions on IRC, it doesn't sound like anyone's worked on this sort of set up. Good that you bring it up on wiki, because you must be very lucky to get full-picture answers on IRC. The code written for MembersPage/FiatStilo, which considers the small gap (the shortest gap between two consequtive trigger pulses) as "missing tooth" (should be called indextooth), should be able to drive this wheel too. Config changes: * trigger_tooth=1..3 # max 2 for 6 cyl * another_trigger_tooth=03 # 4 cyl * another_trigger_tooth=02 # 6 cyl * tooth_wheel=07 However, it should be tested on the table. This wheel is better than MembersPage/FiatStilo's since it allows wasted spark without camsync. I see a small problem: RPM is calculated from the time between tooth 0 and tooth 3 (another_trigger_tooth), which is uneven for this wheel. This results in some perceived RPM fluctuation, which should be fixed (small firmware mod). Possible/probable roadblocks requiring extra code are: sync pulse comes 70 ATDC # 4cyl With 4cyl, 70 degree ATDC = 110degree BTDC. I don't see why this would be a problem, it's outside the ignadv window, even if ALS is used. ------------------------------------ Older: So, finally time to get going on this, shopping list/plan is as follows (comments appreciated): genboard 6 fets 1 dpak fet idle stepper driver later: WBO2, harnesss, connector cam sync generator egt thermocouple/connectors COP plugs 4 igbt drivers for COP Genboard 3.3 no case/connectors stock computer case and connectors (attempt at plug and play) Use jumper wires and a stub board to connect from genboard to connectors removed from stock computer Drivers: fets: 4 injector drivers (driving 36lb low impedance injectors from a thunderbird) batch fire 2+2 for now, hopefully sequential later 1 wbo2 heater 1 power steering orifice (pwm to control properly? need to scope, probably add later) 1 boost controller (using an egr solenoid probably low current, use extrafet spot?) idle stepper driver - for the idle stepper... TPIC: egr control (stock solenoid) canister purge solenoid (stock) fuel pump (via relay) fan (via relay) air conditioning (probably relay, but might need to move to extrafet) 3 - stock check engine, coolant temp, and shift lights DIS bypass signal (external circuit/igbt channel ?) bypass an igbt channel and directly drive the est signal to the DIS Sensors: stock coolant temp sensor (standard GM type) stock air temp sensor (same) stock knock sensor (ditto) 2 bar GM map sensor crank position signal from DIS module (square wave, hallish? even though sensor is inductive) cam position signal from cam sync generator http://www.msdignition.com/sci_16.htm stock throttle position sensor stock nb O2, upgrade to wbo2 once running Issues: Getting the speedometer to work as it's driven by the PCM which takes the speed sensor signal and does the math to accomodate different size tires and then sends it to the speedo. This may be doable with an external part, will worry about this later... Need a digital input for AC request line. Reading the crank signal from the DIS should be easy because it's just a square wave. Controlling may be more difficult as it needs high or low so the igbt won't work. Since the ixdn404si can pull high or low, jumpering the igbt pads would do the trick or just connect directly to chip (maybe configure as input?). Cam sync signal is also in the same format, but won't be useful until sequential injection comes into play. Gameplan: Wire up injectors, idle stepper, and sensors, get idling with DIS controlling ignition, then get DIS working, then all the other niceys/emissions as time/money allow.
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