Before trying to run your engine with an ECM you should try to put together a system on the table - as complete as possible. It will save you time: There are many things that can go wrong, you want the lowest risk possible. You can learn about the effect of setting injector pulsewidth related parameters (measure with scope or DVM) and other settings without flooding your cylinders with gasoline and the risk of setting your engine on fire.
The generic rule is that for the first 2 installs, when you think you wired and configured everything, any you are ready to start the engine, you need about a day more.
While doing the table tests, hook up small 2..5 W 12V (in fact 14V) lightbulbs on all used injector and ignition channels. It will warn you if you misconfigure the controller, and you'll get the feel how it all works while playing with the RPM (inputtrigger) and the dwell, or req_fuel. It can save you from frying coils, IGBTs etc...
The trigger can be applied:
- My stimulator is a wire, beat that :-) : the simplest way: for GenBoard/VerThree I use a wire that captures 1500 RPM from the air (1800 RPM in US or Japan, the RPM is different if configuration is not for 4cyl), close to a power-wire. The LM1815 is nice !!! I originally used with 2*470k in series so the wire can be plugged into the 230V when I noticed that it's enough to put the wire close to the outlet. Notice that this does not work if you have any kind of trigger input applied, only if the input is left high impedance. If the onboard trigger-input-pullup is populated (usually 10k) that will also prevent triggering through the air.
- self-stim: see OutputTrigger
- megastim (separate board, limited to coil-type even-tooth)
- InputTrigger/AudiTrigger board could be easily used (with some firmware mods) to emit stim pulses
- rotating disk and some (optical is simplest) trigger: We make camsignal with a drill with 300..1500 or maybe 300..3000 RPM. These mean 600..3000 and 600..6000 (crank)RPM respectively. Put in a circular plate which is normally used with sandpaper (appropriate care is needed, responsibility is yours), but we glue on it a printed diagram instead of sandpaper:
The circular diagram will simulate a camtrigger (full 0..720 crankdegrees), structures from center to out.
and the [program] that created it (thanx => humming).
Sizes are just approximate, no need to be exact:
- 30 mm dia black circle, with a small (d=3mm) white dot at about r=12mm (this will be lit by the timed red LEDs like they were a timing light - to show timing ). A small white cross at the center helps positioning to the shaft of drill.
- r=15..40mm: 4 cylinder coil-type trigger (4 even placed pulses)
- r=40..65mm: 8 cylinder coil-type trigger (8 even placed pulses)
- r=65..90mm: multitooth trigger: 36-1, 36-1 (EDIS-type) or 18-1,18-1,18-1,18-1 (MembersPage/MichaelKristensen's trigger)
if it does not fit or rings would be too narrow... chose only the rings you want to try. Btw the whole thing will be sized to your drill-sandplate apparatus, and you can use only the internal 2 sections - you get the idea.
The phototransistor is pie to connect: emitter to GND, collector to IC3 (on GenBoard v2.2), which has an appr. 100k pullup enabled from software, you can experiment with 20k external pullup to VCC. You can connect several infra LEDs in series, since the voltage drop across one is only 1.15V. They will light continuously (target current is 20..50mA), eg. use 8 infra LEDs in series and a 47..100 Ohm pullup to 12V sounds good.
You always move your infrared LEDs and phototransistor to the ring which matches your config (you can config multitooth / coil type trigger).
Play with changing the advance, dwell, etc. You need to understand what's going on, before applying it to an engine.
You can turn on EDIS in config if you like, the dwell in that case is a command to EdisIgnition.
Note that the length of output pulse (angle) will grow with RPM at a given dwell (time).
Watching the result:
- TimingLight. Lighting the center circle of the above drill-disk-apparatus with bright red LEDs is very simple
The oscilloscope and the timing light are showing more or less the same thing (timing light is more spectacular, but needs the rotating disk), the MegaTune (or at least a simple TerminalProgram) is recommended in any case to check the numeric variables like RPM and ignition advance.