List of what I need for project MembersPage/TerroRx

from the shop :

Box :

Connectors :

The EconoSeal?36-Wire and Econoseal18-Wire are just the uncrimped wire-side connector housing + recepticles + rubber seals + backout plate; crimping yourself saves on wire and is very convenient. Choose EC..-wire if you're not afraid of crimping - which is easy.

With EC.. harness, the recepticles are crimped to the end of silicone insulation wires, so you don't need to crimp, but probably cut away some wires and take care to pull in enough wires (without hurting the recepticles).

Either way is fine, of course.


other parts :

The (air, coolant) temperature sensors are ideally 2 .. 3kOhm at room temp (very different resistance requires changing the onboard pullup-resistor), which is true for GM temperature sensors. But if you take a DVM with you to the pull-yard...

did I forget any thing ?

It seems we have to make relevant sections clearer: check DummyIgnition again. Yes, DummyIgnition is an easy and effective way. But it works just as good with wastedspark!

Wasted spark means less heat on individual IGBTs, on one transformer, less single point of failure and more room in the engine bay by eliminating the need for a [distributor]


[recommonded coil] (by mallory).

Ignition options

I can do the ignition in three ways. All of them are DummyIgnition, controlled by GenBoard/VerThree and driven by onboard IGBTs.

I'd go with some available N-1 crankwheel (it can be manufactured too, but there are cheap bolton options for most engines) and a VR sensor from a factory car.