My name is Paal, working and playing with toy cars in Bergen, Norway.
Time to update progress in 2009
Apply a GenBoard/VerThree (V3.3) to my Polizei-golf's new engine.
The car, today (2009, 2010, 2011, forever foreseeable future):
- 16v KR engine with S2 pistons
- H-profile conrods (chinese)
- S2 intake manifold with S2 TB throttlebody [TPS schematic] - pinout: pin 3 = signal, pin 2 = signal gnd, pin 1 = +5v
- OEM 60-2 trigger wheel, HALL sensor - pinout: pin 3 = signal gnd, pin 2 = signal, pin 1 = +5v
- K24 turbo
- 440cc (high impedance) injectors and 3,5 bar FPR (Porsche OEM with Ross Machine Racing FPR adaptor)
- 034EFI idle stepper motor [link] (Not used, using idle screw on TB)
- 034EFI wasted spark coil [link]
- 034EFI IAT sensor [link]
- OEM "blue" water temp sensor
- Chinese fuel pump mounted inside tank. Waiting eagerly to see how long it lives.
VAG 60-2 (BOSCH) Hall trigger:
Mounting instructions - udpated
Note the following important differences if you are planning to use this kind of trigger assembly:
- Trigger assembly has o-ring seal - do *not* use the paper gasket. Use your favorite gasket sealant on the outer side of the o-ring.
- Hall-trigger bolt and wire will need to be grinded down ~1,5-2 mm to get clearance from the block. Ensure the trigger assembly plastic casing will be flush with the block, and that the bolt + rubber grommet for the hall trigger is sufficiently grinded down.
After a miserable user-error during mounting, I had to remove the transmission + clutch assembly to re-align the trigger wheel. This happened at 2500 rpm, no load, and stopped the engine with a nice pop out the exhaust.
When I initially mounted it the ring got pressed too far onto the crank, and the result was rubbing against the oil seal --> trigger wheel skipped ~45 degrees. In addition I did a really poor job at modifying the steel cover to accomodate the trigger itself.
- Attach the oil seal / trigger assembly
- Carefully push the trigger wheel onto the crank
- Fit the flywheel onto the crank, and tighthen carefully. This will push the trigger wheel far enough onto the crank, and this ensures it wont rub against the oil seal.
- Ensure there is no contact between steel cover and trigger wheel, and that the hall trigger itself has enough room.
- Note additional mounting instructions above
The orange plastic clip is nice to use for alignment, since it will give you a somewhat predictable "TDC after the trigger" in VEMS (it aligns the wheel at 85 degrees BTDC).
If you need to remove the triggerwheel, use the screws holding the oil seal to the block, and screw them gently into the brass threads. This will push the ring out.
German thread: http://www.golf1.info/forum/thread.php?threadid=14109&page=2#post151865 and [ELSAWIN screenshot here stating it is a Hall sensor, (ro/gn) goes to G40 pin#1 (which we know is Hall), and EGR-potentiometer pin#2 (reference voltage) (TeroK)])
- 85° BTDC with cyl1 at TDC [reference]
- OEM parts numbers:
- sealing flange with 60-2 trigger wheel and plastic clip to align wheel with housing: 030103171L (~65 EUR)
- Hall sensor with ~15 cm wire: 030906433Q (~40 EUR)
- Steel backing plate: 030103647E (~20 EUR) - [some modifications needed] -- also possible to use OEM PG (g60) plate, with minor cutting.
- [image of connector + crimped wires] - part numbers:
- connector: 1J0973723
- 3x crimped wires: 000979133A
- 3x rubber seals: 357972741A
trigger settings example from emil (2007):
- Falling, Multitooth
- with trigger tooth 3
- TDC After the trigger = 62 degrees
- is this measured or speculation ? verified via strobing ?
- it's easy to get into the ballpark (+-6 crankdeg) with InputTrigger/TriggerLog, but it's really a good idea to verify via strobing anyway
- After strobing my engine I ended up at 64,5 degrees "TDC after the trigger". Any installation should be verified with strobing no matter what.
Assembled v3.3 controller
- 1-wire interface: no
- Flyback: 30V flyback
- ignition driver: 4+4
- Knock and EGT: yes
- LCD connection: no
- MAP connection: onboard 2,5kpa
- mounting-style: screws
- primary_trigger: HALL
- PS2 connection: no
- secondary_trigger: HALL
- Control boost with 3way pneumatic valve [webshop] (Currently unused)
- v3harness, I4 with relays -- I am VERY satisfied with this harness.
- EGT sensor (6mm), placed before turbo
- WBO2 sensor
- Figure out how to get TACH signal: instructions from Jorgen at MembersPage/PaalPolizei/TACHSignal
Sensors used / calibration data'
Borrowed from MembersPage/TeppoKalske:
IAT (audi 1.8T 20v sensor):
-40°C 80000 Ohm
20°C 2400 Ohm
130°C 100 Ohm
More info about this sensor here MembersPage/SteinOvePrestmo/SensorPage
Blue water temp sensor curve (from G60 selfstudy pdf):
Hex files chosen for IAT/CLT:
cltfactor_2252_256.hex (based on sensor curve above)
airXfactor_2063_256.hex (based on prestmo sensorpage for 20vt IAT)
Progress / worklog
- Engine is in car
- Pipeworks, welding intake / downpipe is soon done
- Ordering VEMS unit + sensors + harness
VEMS has been ordered with above specifications. Ordered via Jörgen.
MAP, TPS is calibrated. IAT + CLT needs calibrating, and Im getting ready to try out some configs to see if it starts.
Using the V3harness on the engine I had to reverse the injector order since the main harness is on the transmission side of the engine. E.g cyl 1 is labeled inj D, cyl 4 is inj A.
IAT+CLT is now calibrated using above hex files. Waiting for last check of MSQ file before attempting strobing to verify trigger settings.
Car is running pig rich, currently running boost control directly on wastegate (max 0,4 bar).
Car has been driven regulary for a week, still not properly tuned. Runs very well, even with no boost restriction. I had problems with the car dying at random intervals - this was traced back to either fuel pump relay or signal wire to the relay. After putting in new wires and a different relay the problem has gone away.
Interesting oil leaks from the crank/transmission housing. Reason: trigger assembly not mounted correctly/not modified correctly. Starting to enjoy taking the transmission in and out.
Engine has been rebuilt due to worn conrod bearings on cylinder #3. Planning upgrading VEMS firmware.
Notes for 2011
Verify value for "Fuel pump output, Pump off after inactivity" in Megatune. Should not be 0.00s, but 0.5s - so that the fuelpump relay output doesnt turn on/off all the time.
>have you gotten your idle motor to work? I just ordered one for my car from 034 also
What are your settings? How's it working for you?
Can you possibly upload a screenshot of your idle settings to my member page? Members page/nickjorge