Which is the right choice for trimm controlled launch rpm?
Now it's only a switcher on Ch5 but the rpm not controlled with trimmer.
As Analog in CH2 is a pulled up input, connect 10k or more like in the drawing above, or use an analog input without pullup but in this case connect +5V to the non connected pin of the potentiometer.
From fw 1.2.17 (see GenBoard/UnderDevelopment/FirmwareChanges ) the "Pump on After powerup" function supports non-p259 fuelpump (also the time restarts from correct button touchon; otherwise measured from powerup of course).
- I replaced the small- home made 5*5*5 trigger wheel to bigger one. This trigger's tooth height=7mm ,width=7mm , thickness=5mm. It isn't taking a less trigger signal.
- The old tachometers didn't work from P259. I wired to Stepper A. It's working well.
- Yesterday the engine was started.
- How can i check the WBO sensor status? Today when i was programing, the lambda signal missed (egyik pillanatról a másikra). It's showing 1.83 everytime. The fuse ok. I checked the connectors and cables from WBO connector to Econoseal. What should i do?
- I-button reader case must be GND (not +5V !!!)
- the middle pin is EC18/pin16 (that is OK).
- note: separate LED with series resistor (eg 270 Ohm) can be driven from p259 output (configure in Output/"Warning light")
- unfortunately the I-Button reader built-in LED is internally connected to GND, therefore cannot be driven from P259 output (that also pulls to GND)
It's full original, rebuilt JN 9:1 NA 1.8 8V block with 2.0 ABK head with a TD04-15T turbo.
I made a 100% new harness.
- home-made 36-1 VR
- teeth gaps are appr 3-4mm
- very likely tooth before and after the missing tooth is much higher amplitude then other teeth
- unfortunately ECU was not ordered for poor-VR (R181 standard, not 270k). If pulses miss out (possibly only at higher RPM), remember this. Next time use HALL when making trigger at home.
- note: MembersPage/Norbitron/Audina/Quest is unrelated