Tasklist for MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap
- [engine pictures] - before mounting
- [engine after mounting] - note that the radiator is missing. Only the air conditioner cooler is in there. If there were no air conditioner, the radiator would go to the place where the AC cooler is now, and the turbo would fit nicely.
- [high resolution images of mounted engine] also from under.
Problem: MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/QuestForSpace => that's why turbo is dropped. Therefore some of the list below is not applicable without a turbocharger.
- starter motor connection - should not be hard
- check generator connection - should not be hard
- verify (and correct) MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/DaewooHarness
- I should put these tasks (as workeffort records) to ofbiz.
- prepare detailed project BOM
- mechanical swap: DONE - fitted like a charm
- one of the 4 screws of the engine-cover is naughty: has a small piece of (5mm allen) tool in it. Not sure how I'll remove the cover, I might need to be brutal
- basic connections: ready
- electronic connections: snow delays works a bit
Finally the NA exhaust is installed. Even the fine-thread mother crew is in hand by now. Exhaust install (considering it's finally NA) was more expensive than I thought, somewhat >100 Euro (mainly because of the flex-tube). Also took more time, they didn't even started (although we agreed earlier) before I noticed. Photos above.
The WBO2 sensor is installed (we must not start the engine before the sensor control is set up). The EGT (bung) is also installed (welded on). The EGT must be bolted in, so there is no unwanted hot jet out of the 3mm hole :-)
- Have the partner but have no space for turbo: see MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/QuestForSpace. exhaust manifold preturbo - stainless steel. With some small tubes, see "turbo" section below. Also, socket for ExhaustGasTemp. Should I make it to maintain the possibility of an external wastegate applied later ? - No need, the internal wastegate will work fine at the pressures and flows you will see. But make sure that you have some room around the wastegate actuator, sometimes modifications to the actuator makes it grow a bit.
- material: K304 stainless steel pipes, but the plate that bolts on the head is iron. Jorgen says 304 or 316 works well. It's often good to make the head flange from ordinary steel. Stainless extends twice as much as ordinary steel putting more strain on the bolts. Drawback is head flange will oxidize faster. But that is better then pulling head to replace the header bolts once in a while.
- CONTRACTED. exhaust manifold after turbo - with 18x1.5mm ( GenBoard/Manual/WBSensor ) female thread.
Turbo - K03 with internal wastegate. Will stay in the trunk. (another project, see above).
- tap the engine for the pressure-oil connection to turbo
- oil connection to turbo
- water connection - Only promotes turbo life and tuned engines tend to get's their turbos changed often because of upgrades.
- wastegate actuator connection from pre-throttle (with T for BoostControl solenoid)
- (BoostControl) solenoid connection
- small diameter pipes:
- for preturbo fuel "injector" (CIS-style pipe; with closed end for now)
- for preturbo water "injector" (same style as for fuel)
- preturbo sparkplug thread: same way as for gas-turbine. Do I need a flame-holder chamber? Sort of, not a real flame holder but it should be out of the exhaust stream.
The 60-2 crankshaft VR signal is by far the most improtant signal of all. We had alignment problems
We made a mounting adapter from K304 stainless steel. It's concept is a 3mm thick 40 mm wide 105mm long (non-magnetic) plate that is bent to 150 degree (30degree bend starting from straight 180). It has 2 holes (an 18 mm and a 6 mm dia) to bolt to the place of the original sensor location and 2 holes (an 18mm and a 6mm dia) so the sensor can be mounted - aligned to position. Different location wrt TDC, but we can set that in GenBoard configuration. It has an orthogonal strenghtening plate welded. It seems that it's strong enough. It is very important that it does not vibrate too much. We hope it will work well. Battery in our camera just went flat so you'll have to rely on the above description until Monday.
- find out exact type of E-TEC engine. 1.6L 16V 106HP Daewoo engine (same block as in opels X16XEL, but the variable intake seems different).
- I'm now 99% certain it is A16DMS 1.6L DOHC (manufactured since 1997-, used in USA and EU as well at least in models Cielo, Lanos, Nubira) 1598cc 4 cyl.
- 79mm bore x 81.5 mm stroke (=1598cc) (close, but not identical to 80mm x 79mm of the Opel GSI)
- found some [agonization] - was mostly interesting to show F16 tranny mate an X16XE Opel and this A16DMS
- The info 76.50 mm bore X 81.50 mm stroke (long stroke) was bad info, it is 1498cc, which is right for the 1.5L smaller-brother of the A16DMS engine.
- find out compression. Can we measure this with a leak-down tester somehow ? It's factory engine, so docs (that I don't have) should say. Probably CR=9.5 .. 10 by default. (more likely close to 9.5 IMHO)
- headgasket I collected address for head-gasket guys, might order the head-gasket to have in stock, but not going to pull the head unless it turns out to be necessary for some other reason
- rough calculation for head gasket: If I want to drop CR from (assumed) 9.8 to 8.2 that means about
- leak-down test (though the engine is almost new). Take notes of angles (TDC) with respect to crank and camshaft.
- fill up with oil
- I was surprised to find this tranny is used in many (small) US cars. My factory F16 tranny mated the new engine. The bigger bolts mated fine, but there are some misaligned holes that (bolts) are simply left out. I hope it won't be a problem.
- google found this [junkive page]. It says that some "Getrag" (?) tranny works at 190whp and the 1.6DOHC can handle 150hp very reliably (no surprise here. does not mention compression though)
Variable intake - InTake/VariableIntake
- reservoir for the variable intake: get one
- is the small VAG boostcontrol solenoid OK for variable intake actuator ?
Absolutely unsure about this. Probably a simple K&R cone filter for now, until we find the best solution.
- pressure drop vs airflow over currently mounted air-filter ?
- the current airbox mounting is optimized for NA: not very good for the (front-mounted) charge cooler (TODO: pics)
- I was always drooling for an airbox for Champion-501 type filter: an easily available reasonably sized and priced filter with extremely good characteristics (used for upto 144kW)
- but not very keen on building the airbox myself. Hard to find a good place with all the coolers there
Materials for the above
It seems that I'll soon have the starter and generator and maybe some other stuff from the same guy that sold the engine (:-).
Starter motor - mounted
Generator - mounted
- matched length multirib (not V-belt) serpentine-belt for the generator
- ECM side connector for the factory harness. Find a broken Opel/GM/Motronic/Delco/Daewoo ECM with matching connector - ordered one (20 Euro) and discussing another
- 60 Euro for a good unit would a bit expensive to ruin just for the connector, but in the worst case...
- JPT ??
- DSUB for some extra connections
- small pneumatic tubes (mainly 6x4 - WebShop)
- small pneumatic connectors and T-s (mainly 6x4 - WebShop)
- big 50mm pressure tube (only 2x more expensive than the 6x4 180C vacuum-bearing tube)
- cheap BOV dump valve (pre-throttle)
- (BoostControl) small solenoid for wastegate control
- (BoostControl) small restriction for wastegate control
- (CruiseControl) valve (no idea)
- grease (for O2 sensor I have - thanx to MembersPage/JohanEriksson )
- cohesives (?)
- oil (5..6l?). first I don't want to go too far with oil quality, as first 2..3 months will surely be low load, and oil must be changed soon anyway to catch any suspicios thing. Better to change a cheaper oil every 6-8000km, than the most expensive, best oil every 10-12000km.
- oil filter
- air filter: not changed now, unless new airbox is made
- exhaust manifold gasket - to head
- gasket between exhaust manifold and turbo
- gasket after turbo TODO: measure sizes. Above as well.
- I have very basic tools only, I'll rely on the engine shop
The guys at the engine shop seem to be very helpful. Also, the swap (without the exhaust manifold, which is expensive to manufacture from K304 stainless) might not cost much more than what I paid for the yearly regular inspection at another place (160 Euro). I plan to get the engine-shop to help (for reasonable prices) with the charge-cooler and turbo oil and water piping at least.
I definetely suggest this. When the engine is in the car, and the turbo is on the engine, than we can do the electronic things fast. Bolt on a turbo for an NA engine is a big work for a professional engine-shop too. It's more complicated than it seems. If the shop'll do the work cheap, than you should choose that solution.
Tasks that should be done by the engine shop:
- change the oil filter - the workshop did that (?)
- change the fuel filter - they said not needed after just 30000 km .
- fill the engine with oil
- try out if starter motor works right
- DONE connect all the coolant hoses
- DONE build in the radiator and the coolant fan