MembersPage/Koskar

Greetings from Finland!


My project car is Ford Escort Mk4 -87

Plans to season 2011: Install VEMS and throttle bodies

On July 2010 I got it to the dragstrip and results are: ET 14,32 s and speed 158,73 km/h

On August 2010 we got it to the dyno and results are: 129,9 Kw and 231,3 Nm.

[Escort Mk4]

Engine:

- Ford Galaxy -99 2.3i 16V engine block and cylinder head

- Ford Escort RS2000 -92 cams, exhaust header and intake manifold

- Ford Escort Cosworth T25 fuel pressure regulator (3,5bar)

- Davies Craig electric water pump and controller

- Ford Escort RS2000 ECU (EEC-IV) with Collins chip and EDIS4 with dual coils

[Engine bay pic in Botniaring Race Cirquit 2009]


My VEMS history :)

I build one VEMS project in 2008, but I sold it forward because I didn't have time to tune it. So it's time to try again!

Old wiring harness and ECU: [old harness]


VEMS external hardware

Injectors: Bosch 0 280 155 504 (~280cc/min@3,5bar?)

Coils: Ford dual coils

Coolant sensor: maybe GM because resistance range is suitable and it's got correct thread

Intake air sensor: GM for same reason

Primary trigger: Ford VR sensor

Secondary trigger: Ford VR sensor, reading exhaust cam at cylinder 4 (I'm not sure do I use this at the beginning at all)

TPS: Keihin TPS (stock Suzuki GSXR1000 K2)

LCD: 20x4 black/green with inverted colors

Lambda: Bosch 057


VEMS related shopping list

Soon I will make order to VEMS shop and I have allready collected some VEMS related items to my project (LCD, knock sensor and wiring harness stuff).

--> Done

Products

1 x GenBoard v3.6

- Ship start: 2 weeks 247.30EUR

1 x Alubos1600

- Drill-count: 6 27.04EUR

1 x Alubos EC frontplate

- Drill-count: 0 15.97EUR

1 x Alubos Endplate

- Drill-count: 4 5.84EUR

2 x Alubos gasket 4.14EUR

3 x clamping plate 7.89EUR

1 x Additional VR or Coil interface 3.99EUR

1 x Econoseal18-PCB 9.87EUR

1 x Econoseal36-PCB 13.89EUR

1 x Econoseal18-Wire side 9.90EUR

1 x EconoSeal?36-Wire side 16.70EUR

1 x Wideband connector

- With wire: without wires 5.60EUR

1 x Idle stepper motor driver 3.00EUR

4 x Ignition driver 14.64EUR

1 x Ignition driver insulator sheet

- Size: 3lines 1.90EUR

9 x Injector or WBO2 heater driver 17.10EUR

1 x PTC fuse 0.71EUR

1 x Throughole Diode

- Model: 30V flyback 0.38EUR

1 x Throughole Diode

- Model: 18V unidir 0.43EUR

2 x VEMS sticker

- Color: white 0.56EUR

2 x VEMS sticker

- Color: red 0.74EUR

1 x VEMS sticker

- Color: metallic: silver 0.45EUR

Total: 412.94EUR


VEMS ECU assembly

Got ECU #3397 [Econoseal connectors soldered] and [underside]

[Black/green inverted LCD screen] and [LCD power on]

[LCD cable grommet and MAP-tube panel mount]

Is this 30V Flyback done correctly? And how about that 4+4 ignition setup. I use EC36 pins 34 and 36, other two IGBT-outputs are now shorted to GND and other 4 without IGBT:s are now connected to logic level.

[MAP, LCD-header, Flyback] and [underside]

Are these wires OK? Especially that 2nd VR from EC36-13 to 2nd LM1815. I measured that EC18-6 (Ch6) and EC18-12 (Ch7) already have pullup resistors (R85 and R86) to +5V.

[2nd VR, TX+RX, Analog Ch5/6/7 and Knock]

Connection from laptop USB -> Belkin F5U109 -> VEMS is working fine =).

[VEMS + LCD + Vemstune running!]


Some new pics and short video (added 16.08.2011)

[Analog inputs]

[VEMS wiring harness]

[Trigger log with 36-1]

[Just some pic of enginebay]

[Short video of second startup]


Questions and answers

1. I want to be sure with primary trigger config. So, when using 100% same 36-1 triggering that Ford EDIS use, what are correct settings?

--> Thanks for advice :)


Story continues... with old connection problem

In 2011, after last editing of this page and after a couple on engine start-ups, I tried to update latest firmware (from 1.1.84 to something that was newest in Aug 2011) before I start to tune engine. Something went wrong and now I don't have connection to ECU thru COM-9. ECU Detect on VemsTune: received ~80+ bytes and send ~5 bytes. So, big guestion is; what to do?

AVR ISP cable USB from VEMS Shop and try Bootloader update? Or am I totally lost with this ECU?

Or throw this ECU away and back to basics with original injection :(. After four years, I have got back some tiny pieces of motivation to get this car back to road and track again =).


Q: Could you elbaborate on exactly what steps you took to upgrade firmware ? did you use firmware upgrade wizard or non-wizard, what firmware did you try to upgrade to ? This information will provide some insight into what might be going on.

Best regards, Dave

A: Because I don't maybe remember correctly all the things that I did four years ago, I can't be sure about all details. It's sure that I have connection thru VemsTune and from VT I tried that Firmware upload from 1.1.84 to last released code. I guess it was 1.1.94 and day was maybe 6. Aug 2011? I have to dig out some old files and notes, if theres some additional information. [Pic of last working FW on LCD]

I have put two indicator LEDs on board, should I see something if ignition power is on?

And TX/RX -bootloader jump/shorting is something that I may try?

cheeRS, Koskar


Hello Koskar,

So if i understand correctly the firmware upgrade gone bad was already in 2011 and you are now trying to revive your ecu, which now has 1.1.94 to a previous state working state of 1.1.84 ? Or do you intend to start over with a clean slate and new firmware (1.2.31 recommended in that case) ?

Best regards, Dave

A: Hello Dave,

And thanks for you reply!

You understand correctly that fw upgrade went wrong in 2011 (and whole car project was left behind to wait better days, which are now I hope). After that upgrade I haven't had any connection to my ECU from laptop. I don't know, did upgrade go to state where 1.1.94 is in AtMega chip already, or is 1.1.84 still there or is there just some corrupted data.

You are right, clean start is something that I'm now after. I don't specially need any of those old firmwares. Just newest fw in, car running and hard tune with vt ;). But how to revive from state where ECU is now? And what I have done wrong, any ideas? Did the whole bootloader upgraded in 2011 from nhex to uhex?

Best regars, Koskar


Hello Koskar,

By following the steps outlined here: GenBoard/Firmware/BootLoaderLoopback you should be able to force your ecu back into a known state and upgrade the firmware to a more recent version. If you have the non-crypted bootloader (without upgrade) the newest version is 1.2.11.

Best regards, Dave

A: Hello Dave,

And thanks again for you reply!

I just get my ECU to bootloader mode with TX/RX link. So connection is now ok and ECU is "alive" again. Great success.

Firmware upload to 1.1.94_BootUpdate? didn't go to ECU. So I have to study a bit more about upload process and what to do with old bootloader. I also tried to upload 1.1.84 and 1.2.11, but neither didn't go in ECU.

Then I tried firmware verify without any match. From 1.1.xx -series I tried 1.1.78/80/82/84/85/87/91/94/94BU and 96. I tried both options, wheelspeed and PS2, but no hits to current firmware.

After those tests I look some old files from my archives. I find out, that in 19.5.2011 I have 1.1.88fw running in, so I try that also without verify result. In next weekend I hopefully get some more info about what was last used firmware.


Hello Koskar,

Could you elbaborate what you mean with "firmware-xxx did not go to ecu", please tell me exactly what steps you followed (in order) so i can diagnose what might be going on.

If the bootloader is still in working order (which it seems to be) you should be able to upload your firmware (from VT) without any problems. When VT makes connection to the ecu, make sure to choose stay in bootloader on the dialog.

Best regards, Dave

A: Hello Dave,

First things first; I got engine running yesterday (27.11.2016)!

Thanks for you guys!

Now I used Expresscard34/RS232 -converter and oldest downloadable VEMStune. Now I use 1.1.94 firmware with old config that was in the ECU already. Started engine after five year break, what a lovely moment for me ;).

I have to re-check trigger setup because engine sounds a bit harsh. I'm worried about missingtooth position, was it right after all last time (EDIS4 == missing tooth 90 from TDC).

Also I have to synchronize throttle bodies to get engine idle properly under 2000rpm.

It seems appropriate to move forward from here. =)