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IGNITION PAGE
I need to figure out what the 4 pins are for on the connector. Disclaimer, the info below is all based on assumption...
- 4 pins - THIS IS HOW WE THINK IT WORKS
- 1 pin for a pair of cylinders
- 1 pin for the other pair of cylinders
- 1 pin for power supply
- 1 pin for ground
- Fire state pins 2-3 are ground. Wait state pins 2-3 are +5v. Don't ask me why I don't understand (yet)
- New Theory:
- Coilpack is triggered on +5v instead of switched ground
- to be determined...
- also possible
- 1 pin for power supply
- 1 pin for ground
- 1 pin to trigger spark
- 1 pin as HV (secondary side) return (easy to test: appr 10..20kOhm with the sparkplug connection, maybe only in one direction)
Diagnosing the VR6 coilpack:
Pin 1 - power, Pin 5, ground
1) Disconnect the 5 pin harness connector from the ignition coil power output stage
2) Connect a voltmeter across terminals 1(-) and 5(+) in the connector. Turn the ignition on and check that battery voltage is present.
3) Remove fuse no. 18 (fuel pump, H02S control module) from the fuse/relay panel.
4) Connect an LED test light across terminal 5 and terminal 2 in the harness connector. Actuate the starter and check that the LED flashes.
- If the LED does not flash, the ignition (ground) signal for cylinders 1 and 6 is not present. Check the wiring between the coil and the ECM connector. If no faults can be found, the ECM might be faulty.
- If the LED does flash, but the spark plugs for cylinder no 1 and cylinder no 6 do not fire, the ignition coil/power output stage is faulty and should be replaced.
5) Repeat above step across terminals 5 and 3 (cylinders 3/4) and terminals 5 and 4 (cylinders 2/5). If any faults are found replace ignition coil/power output stage.
Diagnosing a mkIV 2.0 (might be VR6 too):
There are two types of plugs, AEG has a four prong one, AVH and AZH has a six prong plug. The numbering begins at the square end of the plug, and ends at the round end.
On AEG, probe pins 2 and 4 , others probe 1 and 6 with the voltmeter. Switch on ignition and it should read 11.5V minimum. If it has no voltage, start looking for open circuits and damaged wires.
Next, using an LED test light, switch off ignition, remove fuse 32 (fuel injectors), and using the same pairs of terminals as above (2 and 4 or 1 and 6), operate the starter and check for signal from the ECM, the LED should flicker.
Then repeat with terminals 3 and 4. If the light flickers, signal from ECM is good, but the ignition coil and power output stage should be replaced. If it does not flicker, check for brak in wiring, and check ECM for DTCs with a scantool.
Notes, they want you to use a high quality digital meter and LED test light since an analog meter and traditional test light may damage the electronics. Always connect and disconnect the ECM plug and meter probes with the ignition off to avoid damaging electronics.
It also says that the power output stage cannot be directly tested.