Trigger related page for MembersPage/EricN
Started over with input trigger ideas. Took a VR sensor and 24 tooth trigger wheel out of a Honda Civic distributer. Ground off 1 tooth, pressed it on to a gutted Unimog distributer (took the whole advance mechanism out). Welded a plate inside, mounted the VR sensor on the plate. Now I have a 24-1 trigger wheel driven by the cam.
If I see right, this wheel is very prone to output bad signal at the missing tooth. If you can, record it with a soundcard. To be safe, divide by 50 (or so) using a 100k and a 2k (or so around) resistor. It might output just higher amplitude signal at the missing tooth, or maybe it has a ghost pulse too.
truck is a 6 cyl. I am firing cop coils and using a distributer mounted 24-1 trigger wheel
Distributor mounted ? Are you sure ? Many things below assumed (before I started to correct them) your wheel is crank mounted.
- My plan is to run as a 12 cyl (engine is a 6) pretending to fire wasted
- bad plan. Might make sense if 24-1 was crank mounted
With distributor mounted 24-1 you can do full sequential, and fire the COP coils just once per camrot.
The full config is MembersPage/EricN/Config
- tooth_wheel=17 # (decimal 23 for 24-1 tooth wheel)
- trigger_tooth=00 # (or 01, 02 or 03)
- another_trigger_tooth=04 # fire 6 times every CAM-rot: trigger event every 120 degrees
- divider=01
- alternate=15 # 6 injector banks; fire all banks at cranking
- ignchmax=05
- ign_tdcdelay=6A # " 53 degrees", between 44 .. 59.5 degrees, perfect
QUESTION 1
After a major ordeal with some dead spark plugs and bad grounds, I got the truck running enough. Only problem is every now and then I get a completely dead half second and then it comes back to life. When cranking, I notice that every now and then the rpm dies off to zero for the same half second then comes back. Likely trigger signal shape problem.
Other than that, the rpm stays pretty constant other than the 3000rpm blip when I hit the start button. If I touch the body of the distributer with a wrench (vr sensor in distributer is my primary input trigger) while the key is on but car is not running, it triggers the ecu and injectors and coils fire a quick shot, enough for big flames out the throttle body.
- I remember reading somewhere about installing a capacitor or some noise filter of some sort...
- The LM1815 chip that converts VR signals to a nice signal for the controller is autosensing trigger signal levels, and if you receive a large peak, it takes a while for this peak detector circuit to come down to your normal levels. This probably explains your behaviour. //Emil Larsson
- If you have a v3.2 or older, a 150k (or 100..220k) resistor in series with C38 might help. See InputTrigger/RunOut . But even this cannot cure very sick missing-tooth signals.
A:
You most likely have noise problems with your trigger, make sure the distributor is properly grounded and the sensor too if it's supposed to, where do have you grounded the VR Sensor circuit? One pin goes to trigg1 input, other to ground, Near EC36 pin26 and not in a GND5 path.
MORE:
I tried to run a ground wire from the distributer housing to various parts of the block and chasis and eventually tried to the battery, I can still lightly tap the distributer housing and trigger the ecu to fire the some fuel and spark. Is it possible that this is normal? I ran the ground wire for the VR sensor right inside to the ecu so I dont think that one is bad. Unfortunately I ran with the fuel valve shut partially off and starved the fuel pump, murdered it. I am now second guessing my problems as being fuel pressure related, not the trigger.
The LCD mlp01 page show the trigger error counts as W..
You might also want to capture (in TerminalProgram) the output of Manmdkffmdfff command, especially around the strange behaviour. You can switch off the continuous output by mdf00 or reboot.
Put the carb back on but left the coils and input trigger in place and just ran the spark on the ecu. The same problem still occurs so I am convinced it is a trigger problem. It happens maybe every 15 seconds or so. Gives me a good blast out the intake, caught my oil bath air filter on fire.
QUESTION 2
I thought I had the input trigger lined up but I had to move the distributer to get everything to fire properly. Just to confirm, this is what I did.
I tried to use and put the trigger area in between 2 teeth but it needed to be played with to start the truck, altough that may be related to question #1 with the trigger dropping out. With the engine running, I set the advance tables to zero (not aware of mda.. command?) and pointed my timing light at the crank, adjusted the distributer till #1 was firing dead on tdc.