Fitting the Crank Trigger
There is no appropriate trigger setup on a TVR Griffith. As standard, it uses a 4 tooth wheel and hall sensor in the distributor.
I chose a 36-1 trigger wheel with a standard Ford VR sensor. A kit of parts specifically for my engine was available at a reasonable price. Since I don't have time to fabricate such things and can't take the car off the road for that long (it's a daily driver), this was the best option.
Fitting the trigger wheel took a whole day, as the crank pulley was held together with Imperial bolts in very awkward positions! (They were supposed to be M8 according to the literature) A tool to remove them was fabricated and they were replaced with M8 cap screws.
Apart from this, the physical installation was straight forward. I set the VR sensor to be 1.5mm from the toothed wheel using a feeler gauge. No science here - just an educated guess. Now on to setting the ECU up and testing.
Setting Trigger parameters
Here's the parameters I used in the ECU.
Edge: Rising
Type: Multitooth
Filtering: Disabled
TDC after trigger (deg): 58 (estimated from TDC and degree wheel)
No teeth on wheel: 35
Trigger tooth: 0
Next trigger tooth: 9
Crank min. period: 1875
Angular width of tooth: 3
Angular width of missing tooth: 6
Parameters to calculate above:
Rev limit: 7000
Imaginary teeth: 36
Missing teeth: 1
Cylinders: 8
dec: 3
Engine Phase in "funny" degrees: 216
Testing the Crank Trigger
Bench testing has already been done, so it's time to put the ECU in the car, but only so it can monitor what's going on.
The first time things were connected, the ECU picked up crank rotation and gave a stable speed. The problem is that it is only half the real engine speed. Still, not bad for a first attempt.
Trigger works properly now the config is actually set in the ECU and not just on the PC. Doh!
Just need to test the polarity on the VR sensor - it doesn't seem to make much difference to how it runs now. ????
[To add: Photos and more about testing. Back to work for now]