Dana Scott

I have already done some work in this area. I have started to capture a schematic in OrCad. I have the footprint of the 60 pin connector and the board outline drawn. The are different styles of the eec4 case. I am planning on using the case and connector of the later style that has a cast metal frame. This frame becomes the heat sink. The case comes with spring clips to hold the to220's to the case. Using a vacuum desoldering tool, I have removed the 60 pin connector from the Ford PCB without a lot of difficulty.

The eec4 board should be large enough to fit the required parts with room to spare. I do not see the board layout as a very large effort as I have the OrCad autorouter, too. I usually use the OrCad autorouter as a tool to check the parts placement on the board. I run the autorouter many times while adjusting parts placement between passes.

My target vehicles are those with the 4 cyl 2.3L Turbo engine. If other people are to get involved, it may be a good idea to provide support for 6 and 8 cyl vehicles too. I did notice the other day in MM&FF magazine that [some company] is selling direct plug eec4 engine management boxes for v8's. Have a look at those prices!! I don't often pay that much for a whole car!

There is a large number of different pin configurations for the eec4. Even for just the 2.3T there are about 4 slightly different pin setups. It may make sense to have rows of holes near the connector to allow a customised connector setup to be wired. This could be arranged so that common or popular pin configs could be made with a row of .1"(2.54mm) wire jumpers.

I was thinking about using an off-board map sensor that could be wired to a couple of unused pins on the connector. The wideband O2 sensor and serial port could be added as well. Will need to survey a large number of eec4 pinouts to determine the best pins for the new functions. Not sure what to do about the LCD. There is a cutout in the case that was used for plug on modifications to the Ford code. Might be able to run a 9 pin d-sub there for LCD. That hole is not in a very useful place, however.

Related pages: PlugAndPlayEEC , PlugAndPlayEEC/FordEECPinouts .

[Schematic of an EEC-IV] !!

not sure what this is about --> PlugAndPlayEEC/NorthAmerican

Moved to its own page MembersPage/DanaScott/GenBd3

I bought the parts kit from Aaron. The .1uF and .22uF capacitors are very large. I was concerned that the leads of the caps might break after a few thousand miles of bumpy roads. I bought replacement caps from Digi-Key. The .1uF's are part # 399-1861-1-ND The .22uF's are part # 399-2083-ND It is amazing how much different the board looks with the smaller caps.

I changed the voltage regulator to a LM2940CT-5.0 . There was no pressing need to do so, but I already had the part in my personal inventory, and I thought that I could easily max out the 100mA limit of the other part if I did any modifications. (the LM2937-ET5 has 500mA limit, but I also use LM2940-T - Marcell).

To my mind, the 1.0K SurfaceMount base resistors for the LED transistors are way too low in value. I changed them to 15K (yes, 10..20k is recommended, no need for the extra mA-s. The assembled boards also have 10k - Marcell.)

I attached the voltage regulator to the board with a 1 inch long screw. The excess threaded portion is on the component side of the board. This should hopefully be all of the heatsinking that the part needs.

I connected the LCD to the board using the on-board DB-9 serial port connector. The serial port connection is now handled by a 3.5mm stereo audio jack. The tip of the audio plug is the data transmitted by GenBoard. I used the same wiring connections as shown on the LCD page except that i swapped the connections for pins 5 and 6 because the ground connection was already made on the pc board.

Also added a ground connection from the 2 mounting pins of the 9 pinD to the ground plane on the board.

The LCD is a 4x16 that I got from I got my KeyBoard from them too.

Went to the junkyard and picked up a complete EDIS-4 setup. I'm not sure how I'm going to attach the 36-1 trigger wheel to my crank pulley. Later models of my engine did come with the correct trigger wheel, but my engine is setup with v-belts and all of the later engines are equipped with a serpentine belt. (I'd only use EDIS if the 36-1 crankwheel is already mounted or pie to mount - Marcell).

Along with the EDIS stuff I picked up the injector harness as well. I will make a new injector harness to make sequential injection possible. My car is a fairly rare model and I don't want to hack up the harness. If I decide I don't need the harness, I can always sell it to someone who has had an engine fire.

Fero's website

I do have 2 cars that I want to control. I should do 1 with EDIS and 1 without. I was thinking that it might be fun to layout a PC board that would fit inside a Ford EEC-IV case. (I have OrCad) It would then be easy for someone with and older vehicle to grab an entire wiring harness from a Ford in the junkyard to make wiring the car very easy. If I could make a plug compatible ( or nearly so )unit, It would be an easy choice for any Ford owner looking for more control over engine management. I will have to grab a couple of EEC-IV's when I go to the junkyard next time. From what I remember seeing, the later units had a more substantial cast metal frame.

I removed the 6 5.1V zener diodes that go to the ADC inputs. I replaced each one with 2 regular diodes. One diode with the same polarity, and an additional one to vcc from the cathode of the existing diode location. (new diode- cathode to vcc , anode to the other diode's cathode.) With the zeners, I noticed a >1V voltage drop across the 10K protection resistors, at input voltages near 5V. I do not want the non-linearities caused by the zeners affecting my sensor readings. I believe that the zeners effects would also vary greatly with temperature. I also put an additional 1K resistor in the line between the diodes and the input to the AtMega128. I used SurfaceMount resistors and soldered them directly to the tracks going to the atmega. I carefully cut a 1mm gap in the copper etch and scraped the solder mask back a little, before soldering them to the board. If I was planning to use a regular (narrow band)O2 sensor I would have kept the 5.1 zener(D7) in place. I will admit that this much protection IS a little excessive.

In the [files area] you will find the file that I wrote. This contains a .bat file that will set up a file directory and perform the set and cvs commands. It works well on my Win98 system, but has not been tested on every version of windows. Try it, it may save you a lot of typing.

I have seen nothing about heatsink requirements for the GenBoard

Don't know where this page should go yet ->> GenBoard/VehicleWiring