History of MembersPage/MarcellGal/PowerAndTraction/AirConditioner
Older Newer
2007-11-21 07:23:23 . . . . MembersPage/MarcellGal [2-circuit relay needed]
2007-08-05 20:20:13 . . . . MarcellGal [wire colors swapped ?]
2007-08-05 09:03:14 . . . . MembersPage/MarcellGal [note on coolant fan driver components]
2007-07-20 08:07:03 . . . . MembersPage/MarcellGal [AC plans]
2007-03-19 23:50:20 . . . . MembersPage/MarcellGal [added some links]
2007-03-19 14:01:12 . . . . MembersPage/MarcellGal [minor clarification of parts]
2007-03-19 13:38:43 . . . . MembersPage/PhatBob [bracketry]
2007-03-19 13:36:31 . . . . TeppoKalske [additions]
2007-03-17 16:52:00 . . . . MembersPage/MarcellGal [air conditioner radiator thoughts]
2007-02-26 23:44:04 . . . . MembersPage/PaulF [Notes on A/C]
2007-02-26 20:25:18 . . . . MembersPage/MarcellGal [A/C mumble;]


Changes by last author:

Changed:
A/C Control plans
A/C Control
Changed:
We have a universal pressure-switch in the high-pressure tube (after compressor), with 2 blue, and 2 black-green wires, the AC guy told that:

* blue-blue : closed between 2.5 and 28bar. Suitable to enable the relay that enables clutch, and turns the radiator fan (which also draws air through the AC condenser) at low fan-speed

* blackgreen - blackgreen : "high-pressure switch" closed above 18 bar: Suitable to turn the radiator fan on at high power through a 70A relay

NOTE: now, after they filled the system with R134A gas, the blue-blue is normally open (with engine off). The blackgreen-blackgreen is normally closed (with engine off). This suggests the AC guy was wrong with the wire colors of the universal switch.

We have a universal pressure-switch in the high-pressure tube (after compressor), with 2 blue, and 2 black-green wires:

* Normalpressure ( blackgreen - blackgreen ) : closed between 2.5 and 28bar. Suitable to enable the relay that enables clutch, and turns the radiator fan (which also draws air through the AC condenser) at low fan-speed

* Above18bar (blue-blue): "high-pressure switch" closed above 18 bar: Suitable to turn the radiator fan on at high power through a 70A relay

NOTE: now, after they filled the system with R134A gas (with engine off),

* blue-blue is normally inf Ohm

* blackgreen-blackgreen is normally 0 Ohm

Changed:
* the ECU should

** disable compressor at max TPS

* the ECU can use a miscoutput to

** disable compressor at max TPS (or whatever condition the user finds appropriate, eg. also at low TPS for cars without idle-valve)

Changed:
** after disabled, do NOT enable for 20 seconds (to prevent compressor clutch wear and belt abuse)
** TODO: after disabled, do NOT enable for 20 seconds (to prevent compressor clutch wear and belt abuse)
Changed:
** the AC compressor clutch (needs +12V)

** the radiator fan at partial power (appr 20A current) through a 2x 0.2 Ohm series resistor that I found under the coolant radiator

** the AC compressor clutch (needs +12V)
Added:
Radiator fan (on low-power) relay, or a 2nd circuit of the above relay

* original plan was to switch radiator and AC clutch by same 1 circuit relay (the AC main 30A relay). However the AC clutch +12V control line MUST NOT be directly connected to the fan (low-power point in the fan resistor pack):

** When the fan turns on for some other reason (coolant temperature too high), we do NOT want the AC clutch to turn on !!! => separate relay (output) needed

** the output of this relay (circuit) is the radiator fan at partial power (appr 20A current) through a 2x 0.2 Ohm series resistor that I found under the coolant radiator

Deleted:

MembersPage/PaulF - also should disable A/C if pressure is too low (method depends on type of pressure sensor). For vehicles without IAC valve it would be useful to be able to disable A/C at a speed/pedal point (to prevent engine stall)