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---- '''Page Listing''' * MembersPage/DuncanThomson/Config * MembersPage/DuncanThomson/Table * MembersPage/DuncanThomson/WideBand * MembersPage/DuncanThomson/EGT ---- '''Project Description''' After a mammoth delay, I am now looking at installing in my new ride, an AAN powered Audi UrS4. * Genboard v3.2 * 4x20 LCD * sequential fuel injection (5 cyls) * ignition via distributor (initially, progess to direct later) * WBO2 * EGT * MAP sensor on Genboard * 60-2 crank sensor * existing cam sensor in distributor ---- '''AAN solution''' I have seen there is a plug and play AAN solution available from the webstore, but am wondering what is required to modify my existing system kit (v3.2) to get the same result. Obviously I will need a new connector and faceplate, what do I need in terms of the auditrigger? AudiTrigger/CamHALLInverter might be a good idea, because it makes the setup less picky with noise or bumps related to flywheel shape. Follow the AAN column in the spreadsheet on VemsAudiAan (otherwise non-standard ignition, injection and other settings would apply). ---- '''Trigger brainstorming''' * ''Cam sensor-only'': 5 evenly spaced pulses => distributor * ''Cam sensor-only'': 5 evenly spaced pulses + 1 secondary_trigger pulse => distributor or 5 coils * 60-2 + 1 secondary_trigger pulse => distributor or 5 coils ** added benefit: crank provides better timing precision ** note that 15-1 on crank is also possible (and actually used with this engine) As you see, 5 pulses per cam rotation would be enough to get the car rolling, but there are clear advantages of a more advanced setup. ---- '''Answered Questions''' ''Crank Sensor'' ** the '''SHAPE of the missing tooth makes a difference with the adaptive hysteresis'''. A naive implementation where the tooth is simply left off, results in higher amplitude at the missing tooth. Look at a bosch 60-2 wheel: *** the gap depth of the missing tooth should not be as deep as the gap of a normal tooth *** the max depth of the missing tooth reached only at the middle (gradually), not with a sudden step ! * I will be making a custom wheel, what is the best setup to use, 36-1, 60-2 ** what toothcount you like ** but post your plans (eg. drawings) '''before''' manufacturing the wheel ''WB02 calibration'' For the WBO2 heater PID settings, the feedback comes from the measured nernst Ri value. The dimension is not Celsius, but resistance (maybe 0.6 Ohm or something similar?), where resistance gets lower as sensor temp rises. * Anyone have some tested values I can use for the heater PID? ** check MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap config ''Crank sensor'' I'm looking at using a VR sensor to pick up on a 60-2 toothed wheel which will be attached to the crank pulley. * From what I can gather, it's best to count the gaps, which leads to a wheel with a 3 degree tooth followed by a 3 degree gap, all the way around the wheel. Then the -2 is achieved by not machining two of these gaps. Is this correct? It would be nice if you could check a few times during machining the missing tooth (before full depth is reached) with a notebook soundcard (and some temporary mount for the VR sensor). If this is not possible, examining a factory 60-2 to get a feeling of it should be the minimum. If you have a spare EC36 pin, it might be a good investment to have a separate pin for VR- that is connected to GND near the LM1815 chip (not through the EC36-pin26 GND). The idea is to keep signal seen by LM1815 very clean for best low RPM (<200 RPM , small signal) behaviour. Although EC36pin26 GND is not as noisy (by far) as the GND5 decreasing it further might be a good investment if the free EC.. pin is available and ECM unassembled. EC.. is perfect, just sharing current paths might (which is common for GND) inject some noise (that is usually below problematic limits). ''MAP Sensor'' * in manual the sensor is mounted on the BOTTOM side of the board * but I have since seen another image which shows the sensor mounted on the TOP side of the board I recommend mounting MAP on the top of the board. Better for getting the tube through the frontplate. Note that MPX4250AP pins must be bent to the other direction depending on the top/bottom (so that notched pin is close to AVR in any case) ---- '''Progress''' * '''17 June 2010''' Mounted LCD screen in box with a transparent top cover. Fitted a female DB9 plug for connecting to VEMS. (Baby steps!) * '''8 March 2006''' EGT wired and calibrated for 0 degrees. Need to calibrate to 100 degrees. WBO2 connected, but need bigger power supply for heater to allow calibration. * '''29 May 2005''' Connected PS2 keyboard. Can now change screens etc without use of a laptop. * '''23 May 2005''' Have an LCD attached, got the LCD going, and added an inline fuse to the power supply. * '''18 May 2005''' Got my "Hello>" back from the board as well as the test screen. My variable power supply only allows current limiting at 35mA or 1.2A, so will have to get a fuse before powering it up again. * '''16 May 2005''' Recently received my v3.2. Currently in the process of soldering on the components required to get power onto the board.
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